Natural grass and swimming pools don’t get along. Splash-out kills it, mowing blows clippings into the water, wet feet track mud across the deck, and fertilizer runs straight into the pool. That’s why so many homeowners are putting artificial grass around their pools instead.
Turf can be a great poolside surface, but a pool is one of the toughest environments it’ll ever face: constant water, pool chemicals, full sun, bare feet, and people moving fast. This guide covers whether artificial grass is right for your pool, how to choose the right turf and infill, design ideas, and exactly how to install it around a pool so it drains well and stays put.
Is Artificial Grass Good Around a Pool?
For most pools, yes, as long as it’s the right turf, installed with drainage in mind.
The Benefits
- No clippings in the pool. No mowing means no grass blowing into the water or clogging your skimmer.
- No mud. Wet feet stay clean between the pool and the house.
- No chemicals washing in. No fertilizer or weed killer running into your pool water.
- Splash-out isn’t a problem. Chlorine and salt water that would brown a natural lawn don’t affect quality turf.
- Better grip than slick surfaces. Turf’s texture gives wet feet more traction than glossy tile or smooth stone.
- Softer than concrete. It’s comfortable for lounging and kinder to knees.
- Green year-round, with no watering, which matters when your pool is already using plenty of water.
The Trade-Offs
- It gets warm in direct sun. Synthetic turf runs warmer than natural grass on hot days. Infill choice, color, and shade all help (more below).
- Infill can get kicked into the pool. Choosing the right infill, brushing it in thoroughly, and planning a hardscape border reduces this a lot.
- Drainage is non-negotiable. Turf next to a pool handles far more water than a typical lawn. A poorly graded install will hold water, settle, and smell.
- Edges need extra care. Where turf meets coping or pavers, it has to be secured well and sloped away from the pool.
Artificial Grass vs. Natural Grass Around a Pool
| Artificial grass | Natural grass | |
|---|---|---|
| Clippings in pool | None | Constant |
| Mud and tracking | None | Common |
| Splash-out damage | Not affected | Browns and dies |
| Watering | None | Regular |
| Fertilizer runoff | None | Possible |
| Surface heat | Warmer in full sun | Cooler |
| Maintenance | Rinse, blow, brush | Mow, water, feed, weed |
Artificial Grass vs. Pavers or Concrete
Pavers and concrete are the classic pool surround, and they’re excellent right next to the water. Turf works best alongside them: a band of hardscape at the pool’s edge for walking and wet feet, with turf beyond it for lounging, play, and softening the look. Many of the best pool designs combine the two.
Choosing the Right Turf for a Pool Area
Not all turf is built for poolside life. Look for:
- UV-stabilized fibers. Full sun all summer will fade cheap turf. UV-resistant fibers hold their color.
- Chemical-tolerant yarn. Quality turf fibers stand up to normal chlorine and saltwater splash. Low-quality yarns can break down faster.
- Fast-draining backing. Hole-punched or flow-through backing moves splash-out and rain down through the turf instead of letting it sit on top.
- A durable, moderate pile. A shorter-to-medium pile with good density handles foot traffic and is easier to keep clean than a very tall, lush pile. See our guide to pile height and face weight.
- Soft blades. People will be walking and lying on it barefoot.
Browse our landscape turf or visit the showroom to feel samples in person.
The Best Infill Around a Pool
Infill matters more by a pool than anywhere else, for two reasons: heat and the chance of it ending up in the water.
- Cooling infill. HydroChill infill is designed to help keep the surface cooler, which makes a big difference for bare feet.
- Odor control. If pets use the area, Zeolite infill helps control odors.
- Brush it in thoroughly. Infill should sit down at the base of the fibers, not loose on top. Loose infill is what gets kicked into the pool.
See our complete infill guide for types and amounts.
Artificial Grass Around Pool Ideas
- Hardscape band plus turf. Keep a strip of pavers or concrete right at the coping and run turf beyond it. Wet feet hit hardscape first, and infill stays farther from the water.
- Turf lounging zones. Place turf where loungers and towels go, and keep hardscape on the main walking paths.
- Stepping-stone paths. Set pavers into turf for a path from the pool to the house.
- Turf on the pool deck. Cover part of an existing concrete deck to soften it (see “Installing Turf on a Concrete Pool Deck” below).
- A pet zone. If your dog uses the yard, see our Pet Turf System.
- A putting green. A small green beside the pool makes the yard work double duty. See our putting green guide.
Step 1: Plan and Measure Your Pool Area
Accurate measurements make sure you buy the right amount of turf and materials.
- Measure the area. Measure the length and width of each section around the pool. Measure three times to be sure.
- Sketch a layout. Draw the pool and surrounding area on graph paper, noting curves, steps, and features like equipment pads, drains, and fences. Mark where hardscape ends and turf begins.
- Calculate square footage. Multiply length by width for each section. Break irregular areas into smaller rectangles and add them together.
- Plan your seams. Check your turf’s roll width and plan the layout to minimize seams, keeping them out of main walking paths.
- Plan the water. Note where water currently runs during rain and splash-out, and where it can drain to. Water must go away from the pool and the house.
Use our guide to calculating turf, infill, nails, and seam tape for quantities.
Step 2: Gather Your Materials and Tools
Materials
- Artificial grass with UV-resistant fibers and hole-punched or flow-through backing
- Class II road base or crushed stone for the base
- Fine base material (such as decomposed granite fines) for the finishing layer
- Weed barrier like our Wildcat Weed Barrier+
- Edging: aluminum edging for curves and steel edging for straight runs
- Drainage tiles such as our PDS Tiles, recommended for pool areas with heavy splash-out
- Rust-resistant fasteners like our galvanized spiral nails
- Seam tape and turf adhesive made for artificial grass
- Infill, such as HydroChill or Zeolite
Tools
- Utility knife with extra blades
- Spade or sod cutter
- Shovel and wheelbarrow
- Plate compactor
- Landscape rake
- Long level and straight board
- Tape measure
- Garden hose with spray nozzle
- Stiff synthetic-bristle broom or power broom (avoid metal rakes on turf)
- Drop spreader
- Tarp or pool cover, to keep debris out of the pool
Step 3: Protect the Pool
Digging, compacting, and spreading base material create a lot of dust and debris. Cover the pool if you can, or at least keep a tarp along the edge where you’re working. Check and empty the skimmer often during the project. Sweep debris away from the pool, never toward it.
Step 4: Mark the Area and Check for Utilities
Mark the boundaries with spray paint or stakes and string. Call 811 before digging so buried lines are marked. Around a pool, also watch for plumbing lines, pool equipment lines, and irrigation, which often run close to the surface.
Step 5: Remove Existing Grass and Plants
Cut out sod with a spade or sod cutter and remove roots and rocks. Bag debris as you go so it doesn’t end up in the pool. Dispose of waste according to local rules.
Already have gravel around the pool? See “Can you install artificial grass over existing gravel?” in the FAQs before you dig it all out.
Step 6: Excavate and Grade Away From the Pool
Excavate to about 4 inches below your finished grade, so the finished turf sits level with the surrounding coping or pavers, not above them.
Grade the excavation so it slopes away from the pool and away from the house. About 1 to 2 percent (roughly 1 to 2 inches of fall every 10 feet) moves water off steadily without a noticeable slope. Check it with a long board and level.
If water has nowhere to go (for example, a flat yard enclosed by walls), plan a drain channel or a drain at the low point before you build the base. Directing water away from the house also protects your foundation.
Step 7: Compact the Soil and Lay Weed Barrier
Compact the excavated soil with a plate compactor until it’s firm. Then roll out the weed barrier directly on the compacted soil, overlapping the edges by at least 6 inches, and pin it down. Placing the barrier here, under the base, keeps weeds out without sitting directly under the turf.
Step 8: Install Edging and Detail the Coping Edge
Install edging around the turf perimeter where it meets soil or planting beds, and stake it firmly.
Where turf meets the pool coping, pavers, or deck, the turf edge needs a solid surface to attach to and must never slope toward the water. Plan to finish the turf tight against the hardscape with the base sloping away from it, and secure the edge firmly (Step 14). This edge takes more abuse than any other part of the install.
Step 9: Build the Base in Layers
Spread Class II road base or crushed stone in layers of 2 to 3 inches. Rake each layer even, wet it with the hose, and compact it thoroughly before adding the next. Keep the slope away from the pool as you build.
Around a pool, a solid base matters even more than usual. Constant water exposure can wash out or soften a poorly compacted base, causing dips and settling. For more on base prep, see our guide to installing artificial grass on dirt.
Step 10: Fine-Grade the Surface
Spread a thin layer of fine base material, compact it, and screed it smooth. Check the slope one last time with a hose: water should run steadily away from the pool with no puddles.
Step 11: Install Drainage Tiles
For pool areas with heavy splash-out, lay drainage tiles over the finished base, directly under where the turf will go. Fit them tightly together and secure them according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Drainage tiles create channels under the turf so water can move sideways and away quickly, instead of soaking into the base.
Step 12: Roll Out and Position the Turf
Unroll the turf over the prepared base and let it relax in the sun until it lies flat. Make sure all pieces have the blades leaning the same direction. Leave extra material around the edges for trimming.
Step 13: Seam the Pieces
- Trim the factory edge from each piece, cutting from the back along a stitch row.
- Dry-fit the edges so they meet without overlapping or gapping.
- Fold both edges back and center the seam tape underneath, shiny side down.
- Spread adhesive evenly over the tape.
- Fold the edges down onto the adhesive, press firmly, and weigh the seam down while it cures.
Keep seams out of the main walking path between the pool and the house where possible. For more detail, see our guide to fixing and preventing visible seams.
Step 14: Trim and Secure the Edges
Trim the turf to fit with a sharp utility knife, working slowly around curves and features. Cut a little long first, then trim to a snug fit.
Secure the perimeter with galvanized nails or U-pins every 6 to 12 inches, driving them between stitch rows so they disappear under the blades. Add extra fasteners in high-traffic areas.
At the coping and hardscape edges, fit the turf tight and secure it firmly so it can’t lift when people step on it with wet feet. Where you can’t nail, glue the turf edge to edging or a solid border.
Step 15: Add Infill Carefully
Spread infill with a drop spreader in light passes, working away from the pool, and brush it in thoroughly after each pass. Infill should settle at the base of the fibers, with none left loose on the surface.
For amounts, about 2 pounds per square foot is a typical starting point for residential turf. See our infill guide to adjust for your turf’s pile height.
Step 16: Rinse and Settle
Lightly rinse the turf to settle the infill, spraying away from the pool. Let it dry, brush it again, and clean the skimmer and pool once more before swimming.
Installing Turf on a Concrete Pool Deck
Covering part of an existing concrete deck is a different job: there’s no base to build, and drainage depends on the slab. Clean and dry the concrete, make sure water can run off the slab, use drainage tiles or a drainage-rated pad, and glue the turf down with gaps on the low side so water can escape. Follow our full guide to installing artificial turf on concrete.
How to Maintain Artificial Grass Around a Pool
- Rinse regularly to wash off chlorine, salt, sunscreen, and dust. Saltwater pools can leave salt residue on the blades.
- Blow debris away from the pool, not toward it.
- Brush every few weeks to keep blades upright, especially in traffic paths.
- Check edges and seams along the coping, and re-glue anything that lifts.
- Top up infill in high-traffic areas when blades start to mat.
- Keep an eye on the skimmer for a few weeks after install, while any loose infill works its way out.
FAQs
Does chlorine damage artificial grass?
Quality turf with UV-stabilized, chemical-tolerant fibers handles normal pool splash-out without damage. Rinse it now and then to keep chemical residue from building up.
Can you put artificial grass around a saltwater pool?
Yes. Salt water doesn’t harm quality turf the way it harms natural grass. Rinse periodically to clear salt residue, and use galvanized or other rust-resistant fasteners.
Is artificial grass slippery when wet?
Turf’s textured surface generally gives wet feet better grip than smooth tile or polished stone. Keep it brushed and free of algae or debris for the best traction.
Does artificial grass get too hot by the pool?
It can get warmer than natural grass in direct sun. A cooling infill like HydroChill, lighter turf colors, shade from umbrellas or trees, and a quick rinse before use all help.
Will infill get into my pool?
A small amount can, especially right after installation. Brushing infill in thoroughly, keeping a hardscape band at the coping, and rinsing away from the pool keep it to a minimum. Cleaning up a little infill is still far less work than skimming grass clippings.
How close to the pool can artificial grass go?
Turf can go right up to the coping as long as the base slopes away from the pool and the edge is secured tightly. Many homeowners prefer a strip of hardscape between the coping and the turf for wet feet and cleaner water.
Can you put an above-ground pool on artificial grass?
It’s not a good idea. An above-ground pool needs a firm, perfectly level base under the liner, and turf fibers and infill create an uneven, cushioned surface that can shift under the weight of the water and wear the liner. The turf under the pool would also be wasted and could trap moisture. Build the pool’s base to the manufacturer’s requirements first, then install turf around it, not under it.
Can you install artificial grass over existing gravel?
Sometimes. If the gravel is a compactable crushed rock that’s already level and firm, it can serve as part of your base: rake it level, add a layer of Class II road base or fine material on top, wet it, and compact it. Rounded gravel like pea gravel doesn’t lock together when compacted, so it should be removed or covered with a compacted layer of base material before turf goes down. Either way, check that the slope still runs away from the pool.
Can I install artificial grass around my pool myself?
Yes. Most pool surrounds are a weekend or two of work, depending on size. The base and drainage take the most time.
What affects the cost?
The size of the area, turf choice, infill type, whether you need drainage tiles, edging, and how much existing landscaping or concrete has to come out.
Get Everything for Your Poolside Turf
Artificial Turf Express stocks poolside-ready turf, cooling and odor-control infill, drainage tiles, edging, and installation supplies. Prefer to have it done for you? We can also talk you through professional installation for your pool area. Order online or visit our San Jose showroom at 370 Umbarger Rd so we can walk you through your options. Call (408) 413-3629 or send us a message.
