The cups are the part of your putting green you’ll look at most, so they’re worth getting exactly right. A cup that’s set too high, shifts after a few months, or sits under a ragged hole in the turf throws off every putt you hit at it.
This guide covers everything about putting green cups for artificial turf: regulation cup size and depth, which type to buy, where to place them, how to set them in concrete so they never move, and how to cut a clean golf hole in artificial turf. It also covers shallow cups for indoor greens and adding a cup to a green you’ve already built.
Building the whole green? Start with our full guide to building a putting green with artificial turf, then come back here for the cup steps.
Golf Cup Size: Diameter and Depth
How Big Is a Golf Hole Cup?
Under the Rules of Golf, a golf hole is 4.25 inches (108 mm) in diameter and at least 4 inches (101.6 mm) deep. Regulation cups are made to fit that hole, so a standard putting green cup gives you a true course-size target.
On a real golf course, the top of the cup liner sits at least an inch below the putting surface. Courses often paint that strip of soil white so golfers can see the hole from a distance.
What Do “6-Inch” and “2-Inch” Putting Cups Mean?
Putting cups keep the regulation 4.25-inch diameter, so when you see a cup described by another measurement, it usually refers to depth.
- Standard and deep cups (around 4 to 6 inches deep) are for outdoor greens built over a base, where you have plenty of depth to work with. Our 6″ cups are in this group.
- Shallow cups (from about half an inch up to a couple of inches deep) are for indoor greens, putting mats, and greens built on platforms where there’s no room to dig.
Always check a cup’s diameter as well as its depth. Some cheap practice cups are smaller than regulation, which makes your practice target easier than the real thing.
Types of Putting Green Cups
Aluminum Cups
Aluminum cups are the course standard. They’re rigid, they hold their shape for years outdoors, and they make that satisfying sound when a putt drops. They’re the best choice for a permanent backyard green.
Plastic Cups
Plastic cups cost less and work well for most backyard and practice greens. Choose a sturdy, UV-resistant cup for outdoor use so it doesn’t crack or warp in the sun.
Cups With Flags and Ball Retrievers
A flag assembly sits in the cup’s center socket and gives you a target from across the yard. Some include a ball retriever that lifts the ball out of the cup when you pull the flag, so you’re not bending down after every putt.
Golf Cup Caps
A cup cap covers a hole you’re not using. With caps, you can install extra cups and switch between them for different putts, the way a course moves its pin positions.
Where to Place the Cups
Plan cup locations before the turf goes down. Once the turf is on, moving a cup means cutting a new hole and patching the old one.
- How many: one or two cups suit a small green. Two to four cups works well on greens in the 300 to 500 square foot range.
- Spacing: leave at least three feet between cups so you have room to putt into each one from several directions.
- Distance from the edges: keep cups a couple of feet in from the edges so you can putt from all sides and the turf edge stays strong.
- On flatter ground: set cups on the flatter parts of your contours. Balls need to be able to settle near the hole, just like on a real green.
- Variety: put one cup near the high side of a slope and one near the low side for breaking putts, and one at the far end for lag putting.
Mark each location with a flag on the finished base, then stand back and look from the house and from where you’ll putt most before you dig.
When to Install Cups in Your Putting Green Build
Cups go in after the base is built, contoured, and compacted, and before the turf is laid. The order looks like this:
- Excavate, compact, and build the base.
- Shape your contours and roll the surface smooth.
- Set the cups in the base.
- Lay, seam, and secure the turf.
- Cut the turf over the cups.
- Add infill and let the green settle.
Our putting green installation guide covers steps 1, 2, 4, and 6 in detail. Here’s everything for steps 3 and 5.
Tools and Materials
- Putting green cups (and flags or caps)
- Fast-setting concrete
- A small amount of gravel
- Post-hole digger, trowel, or narrow shovel
- Tape measure
- Level
- Bucket for mixing concrete
- Hand tamp
- Silicone lubricant (if your cup has a sliding insert)
- Sharp utility knife with fresh blades
- Circle cutter or 4.25-inch hole saw (optional)
- Turf adhesive (optional, for securing the turf edge around the hole)
How to Install Putting Green Cups, Step by Step
Step 1: Mark Each Cup Location
With the base finished and compacted, mark the center of each cup. Measure between cups and from the edges to confirm spacing before you dig.
Step 2: Dig the Hole
Dig a hole about 2 inches wider than the cup’s diameter and about an inch deeper than the cup. For a regulation 4.25-inch cup, that’s a hole around 6 inches across. The extra room is for the concrete collar that locks the cup in place.
Keep the hole walls straight and clean, and disturb as little of the surrounding base as possible.
Step 3: Add Gravel for Drainage
Most cups have drain holes in the bottom. Put a thin layer of gravel in the bottom of the hole so water can drain out of the cup rather than pooling in it. Keep concrete off the bottom of the cup so those drain holes stay open.
Step 4: Set the Cup Height
Place the cup in the hole and check its height with a level laid across the base. The rim should sit flush with the base surface or slightly below it, so that once the turf is laid, the rim sits just under the putting surface. Never let the rim sit above the base; it’ll show as a bump under the turf and kick putts away.
Make sure the cup is plumb (straight up and down) so the flag stands vertically.
If your cup has a sliding insert or sleeve, a light spray of silicone lubricant now keeps it moving freely later.
Step 5: Pour the Concrete Collar
Mix fast-setting concrete and pack it into the gap around the sides of the cup. Work it down with a trowel so there are no voids. Bring the concrete up level with the surrounding base, smooth it, and check the cup height and level one more time before it sets.
Why concrete? The base naturally shifts a little over time with rain and foot traffic. A cup set directly in base material can tilt or sink, and a concrete collar stops that.
Step 6: Let the Concrete Cure
Give the concrete at least 24 hours to cure before you work around it, even with fast-setting mix. Cover the cup so debris doesn’t fall in.
Step 7: Blend the Base Around the Cups
Once the concrete has cured, check the area around each cup. Fill any low spots or gaps where the concrete meets the base, tamp them firm, and run your level across the cup from several directions. The surface needs to be perfectly smooth from base to concrete to cup.
A light layer of fine material, like decomposed granite fines, swept over the base helps fill small cracks so the turf sits perfectly flat.
Step 8: Lay the Turf
Roll the turf out over the base and cups, keeping the pile direction consistent. Stretch it flat, then seam and secure it following the steps in our putting green guide. Don’t cut the cup holes until the turf is fully stretched and secured, or the holes can shift out of alignment.
Step 9: Cut the Golf Holes
See the next section for three ways to cut a clean hole.
Step 10: Secure the Turf Edge Around Each Cup
The turf edge around a hole takes a lot of wear from balls, putters, and flags. A thin bead of turf adhesive between the turf backing and the concrete collar keeps that edge from lifting or fraying. Press the turf down and let the adhesive cure before play.
Step 11: Infill Around the Cups
When you add infill to the green, be careful near the cups. Brush infill toward the holes gently so it doesn’t pour in, and clear any that does from the cups once you’re done. Make sure the turf right around each hole is filled to the same level as the rest of the green so balls roll in true.
Then set your flags and let the green settle for a day before you play.
How to Cut a Golf Hole in Artificial Turf
A clean, round hole is what makes a cup look and play like the real thing. Use a fresh blade whichever method you choose.
Method 1: Cut From the Top Following the Rim
Press down on the turf to feel the cup rim underneath. Push your knife through at the inside edge of the rim and cut slowly around it, using the rim as your guide. Make short, controlled cuts rather than one long sweep, and keep the blade angled slightly inward.
This is the most common method and works well once the turf is secured.
Method 2: Trace and Cut From the Back
Before the turf is fully secured, fold it back over each cup location. Mark the cup’s position on the backing, trace a 4.25-inch circle, and cut from the back along the line. Cutting from the back lets you see the stitch rows, so the cut is cleaner and doesn’t tear tufts.
Take your time aligning the turf afterward so the hole sits exactly over the cup.
Method 3: Use a Circle Cutter or Hole Saw
A circle cutter or 4.25-inch hole saw gives you a perfectly round hole every time. Center it over the cup and cut through the turf only, keeping pressure light so you don’t damage the cup rim. This is the easiest way to get a crisp, uniform edge, especially if you’re cutting several holes.
Tips for a Clean Hole
- Don’t make the hole bigger than the cup. Leaving a large gap between the turf edge and the cup lets balls catch and the edge fray.
- Trim stray fibers around the edge with scissors so the opening is clean.
- Check from putting distance. The hole should look round and crisp from where you’ll putt.
Adding a Cup to an Existing Putting Green
You can add a cup to a finished green, but it takes care.
- Mark the new location.
- Cut a flap in the turf around the spot, a little larger than the hole you’ll dig. Cut from the top along a stitch row on three sides and fold the flap back.
- Dig the hole and set the cup in concrete, following Steps 2 through 6.
- Fold the flap back down, glue it to the base and concrete collar, and weight it until the adhesive cures.
- Cut the hole over the cup and infill the area to match the rest of the green.
If you’re removing a cup, fill the hole with base material, tamp it firm, and patch the turf over it the same way.
Cups for Indoor Putting Greens
Indoors, you usually can’t dig. That’s where shallow cups come in.
Indoor greens are typically built up on a platform of plywood, rigid foam board, or gym tiles, with turf on top. Cut a hole in the platform the size of your cup, set a shallow cup in it from below or above (depending on the design), and lay and cut the turf the same way as outdoors. Match the cup depth to the thickness of your platform.
Maintaining Your Putting Green Cups
- Clear debris and infill from the cups regularly.
- Keep drain holes open so water doesn’t sit in the cups.
- Check the turf edge around each hole, and re-glue any spot that starts to lift.
- Cap cups you’re not using to keep them clean.
Troubleshooting Cup Problems
Putts lip out or bounces out. The cup may be sitting too high, or the turf edge around it may be lifting. Check the rim height with a straight edge and re-glue the turf edge if needed.
The cup has tilted or sunk. The cup wasn’t set in concrete, or the base around it wasn’t compacted. Pull the turf back, reset the cup in a concrete collar, and re-blend the base.
Water sits in the cup. The drain holes are blocked, often by concrete or compacted fines. Clear the holes and add gravel below the cup if needed.
The edge around the hole is fraying. The hole was cut too large or the turf edge wasn’t secured. Trim stray fibers and glue the edge to the concrete collar.
FAQs
What is the diameter of a golf hole cup?
A regulation golf hole is 4.25 inches (108 mm) in diameter.
How deep is a golf cup?
A regulation hole is at least 4 inches deep. Putting cups for outdoor greens are typically about that depth or deeper; shallow cups for indoor greens and mats can be well under an inch.
How far below the surface should a putting green cup sit?
On a real course, the cup sits at least an inch below the putting surface. For a backyard artificial green, set the cup rim flush with or slightly below the base so it sits just under the turf surface. It should never sit above the base.
Do I have to set the cups in concrete?
You don’t have to, but it’s strongly recommended. Cups set directly in base material can shift, tilt, or sink over time. A concrete collar keeps them exactly where you put them.
Can I move a cup later?
Yes, but it means cutting the turf, digging a new hole, setting the cup, and patching the old location. If you want flexibility, install extra cups from the start and use cup caps on the ones you’re not using.
Aluminum or plastic cups?
Aluminum is more durable and is the course standard, which makes it the best choice for a permanent outdoor green. Sturdy plastic cups are a good, lower-cost option for most backyard and practice greens.
Putting Green Cups and Supplies
You’ll find everything you need at Artificial Turf Express:
Golf Cups, Flags, and Caps
- 6″ Aluminum Cup
- 6″ Plastic Cup
- Golf Cup Cap
- Putting Green Flag Assembly (includes pole, flag, and ball retriever)
Putting Green Turf
- Birdie Putt
- Double Eagle Putting Green (also great for bocce and croquet)
- Pro Putting Green
Putting Green Infill
Installation Accessories
Browse our full selection of putting green products and accessories. For more answers, see our Ultimate FAQ Sheet for DIY putting green installation.
Questions about your cups or your green? Visit our San Jose showroom at 370 Umbarger Rd, call (408) 413-3629, or send us a message.
